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Frequently Asked Question

Question: How to choose the right gender for a kitten?

Answer: The gender of the kitten must be chosen in such a way as to achieve balance and harmony in the house. That is, to balance the male and female energies.

Therefore, the choice should depend on the sexes of existing family members: people and animals.

For example, if a family consists of a mother and daughter, then, definitely, for balance, they need to bring male energy into the house. And if in the house there is a husband, a wife, a male dog (1 female energy and 2 male energy), then a female kitty is needed for harmony.

Take it seriously. I have been observing and saw the following pattern: if the balance in the house is already disturbed, and it is aggravated even more, then the animal will behave inappropriately: hissing, biting, scratching. This applies to both cats and dogs.

Believe it or not, this is how it works, so please choose the gender that harmonizes your life.
Another reason to get serious about choosing the right sex for a kitten is that the majority will vampire the minority. For example, if there is a mother, father and son in house, mom may feel constant fatigue and not understand what is happening to her. And the thing may be that men simply, without suspecting it, are vampires of female energy. Therefore, in such a house it is necessary to balance the energies by taking a female pet.

Question: I want a male, because males grow larger than females.


It's not true. Spayed females grow as large as males. They also have a beautiful collar around the neck. It is also a mistake to think that girls will be the same size as their mother. The growth of a cat stops during pregnancy and lactation, and resumes after that. When my cats retire, they catch up with their siblings.

So you can be sure if you bought a kitten from me, a girl or a boy, he or she will raise a huge cat with the face of a lion or lioness.

Question: Can I come and see the kitten in person?

Answer: You can't. There are several reasons for this:

1. The health of the animals. This is important to them, to us, and to prospective new owners.

I do not know anything about the health of those wishing to visit the cattery. Therefore, I will not risk the health and lives of my animals.

2. The kittens are nursing, and visiting strangers will bring a lot of stress for the moms.

3. Lastly, it's not safe to invite strangers into your home. Really, think about the phrase: “I don’t want to pay a deposit until I see a kitten in person.” Payment of the deposit and the conclusion of the contract is not only the reservation of a kitten, but also the identification of a person, a guarantee of his good intentions. And when they tell me: first, let me into your house, and then I will think about whether I need it, I will answer unequivocally: “no”.


I am always happy to have a video chat. You can see me and my kittens. And I get to see you, which is just as important. I will not sell a kitten if my heart feels bad for the baby. These days, everyone has good cameras in their phones, and you can see everything just as if it was in person.

The next step: deposit and conclusion of a contract. While the kittens are growing, I take photos and videos. You will personally meet the kitten when you arrive to pick it up.

Question: I am apart of a Maine coon lovers page on fb and I have been getting so scared. I alway see people posting my kitty died and he was only 2 years old. I’ve seen comments with people saying omg that’s young for a Maine coon. 
I am terrified spending so much money and my luck ( I seem to have bad luck ) something will happen and then I wasted $$$. 
But I am so invested in this cat. I’ve wanted one for a long time.

Answer: I understand you, therefore, I answer in great detail.
In my cattery there are only healthy young reproductive animals with good genetics and pedigree. They have good food and care.
I do not make a petting zoo out of my cattery. Not a single visitor can now come and play with my cats or choose a kitten directly in person. That's what video chat is for. Therefore, viruses and stresses are excluded.
When kittens appear, I take care of the mom, her nutrition, vitamins and supplements, so that she is healthy and has enough quality milk for all kittens, this is important. I carefully monitor hygiene in the playpen where the kittens are. In the playpen, the kittens have toilets without a litter, but with a grate. Because all little kittens eat litter, but I don't want any gastrointestinal problems for my kittens.
And still such at the moment is in my rules. It's hard for me, but I let weak kittens go, I don't save them, fortunately, this rarely happens. Any kitten can be saved, but I know that most likely the rescued kitten will have health problems, and I must be sure that I give the client a healthy kitten.
In the contract, there is a clause where I give 7 days after pick up to check the health of the kitten with a veterinarian you trust. You can also do any virus tests. And if the veterinarian recognizes the kitten as sick, I immediately pick it up, return all the money or exchange it for another kitten.
So, I make sure I give my clients a healthy kitten. Then everything is in your hands. Feed well, care for, and love your pet, and they will be healthy.

Question: Any recommendations for feeding, toilet training and other things when we take the kitten home.

Answer: Feeding kittens.

Currently, I am feeding the kittens two types of dry food:
1. Farmina N&D Prime

2. Purina Kitten Show

And one types of canned food:
1. Wellness Complete Health Kitten Chicken Entrée Recipe

I suggest that you also buy the same food so that you have it when the kitten comes home.
To avoid upsetting the digestive system, introduce new foods gradually, in small portions. Watch the reaction for 24 hours. If there is diarrhea, stop using this food. It is very difficult for me to recommend a brand of food because of the unpredictability of the quality. Unfortunately, lately I have noticed that even popular good brands sell low-quality foods.
Therefore, it makes sense to take a new food at first in small portions for testing.

I do not feed my cats anymore raw meat. Instead, I give my cats freeze-dried raw chicken and other meat or salmon with water once a day.

If you are going to feed your cat raw meat or fish, here are my recommendations: You can find many recipes in natural nutrition groups. For myself, I want to add that meat or fish must first be frozen for 5 days after purchase in order to get rid of parasites. Do not use raw white fish, as parasites can remain in it even after freezing. Raw meat should not stand on a plate for more than 30 minutes. Put as much as the
kitten/cat can eat, if it isn’t eaten after 30 minutes, remove it. You may feed the cat food that you have prepared for yourself, as long as it is unseasoned and the cat is an adult.


Utensils and Feeding Hygiene


Utensils made from bad cheap plastic and metal materials are sure to cause health problems for the animal. I don't know how to distinguish good plastic and metal from bad, so I don't risk it. I only use ceramic or glass utensils for animal feeding.
At least one cat needs 6 bowls: for water, for dry food, for wet food and other treats. The second set is to be replaced while the first is being washed. Bowls should be washed daily. Maine Coons are big cats, bowls are best placed on coasters.
It is also necessary to observe food hygiene. If you have dry food available 24 hours, apply as much as the cat can eat or a little less so you don't throw away the leftovers. Because once a day, the bowl must be washed and filled with fresh food. Wet food should not stand for more than an hour.
Water should be changed at least 2 times a day, more often in the cattery.  Water gets dirty faster when it is next to food, so it makes sense to put it away from food.
I don't use fountains: filters in them do not work, it is energy-consuming to change water 2 times a day.

Litter Box.

When you take home a kitten, it already has been using a litter box for some time. You will need to help the kitten become accustomed to their new box and its location.

Here are a few pointers:
1. Little kittens cannot endure for long. They may not run to the litter box if it is far away. Therefore, place the box next to his food and bed. It is important that the
box is always visible to the cat. Later, when he gets comfortable and familiar with the new environment, gradually move the box to where you want it. It is good if the house has one or more boxes, at least for the period of adaptation.
2. Little kittens love to do their business on something soft and pleasant, such as carpet and upholstered furniture. Therefore, it is desirable that during the period of adaptation to a new place, the kitten does not have access to carpets and upholstered furniture.
3. It will be ideal if you stay near the kitten for this period. If you see a cat start to make, take it and put it in a litter box. If it is a false alarm, take their paws in your hands and gently show the cat how to dig a hole. Then put the kitten in the hole. If it poops outside of the box, take the poop and put it in the box, then put the cat in the box and show the poop to the cat.
Until the time when the kitten will use his litter box. When the kitten is left alone, it is better to place it in a limited space without a carpet. There should be soft, easily washed bed for pet, a dry food, water and litter box nearby. If everything is done right at once, usually this period takes no more than 3 days. 
4. If you notice that the kitten persistently does its business in the same place, put its litter box there.
5. This should all be done calmly. If you get annoyed, best to leave the kitten alone until you can relax.
6. I am often asked what litter I use. I don't use litter when they are young. Reason: little kittens eat everything that is available for them to put in their mouths. The litter also ends up in their stomachs. But at 8 weeks, they already stop doing this and easily adapt to any filler. If a kitten stays with me for more than 8 weeks, he starts using the litter. I use "World’s Best Cat Litter". Urine forms clumps that are easy to scoop out, and flush. Some other brands clump but should not be flushed.

Cat Tree.

Remember that your Maine Coon kitten is larger than a normal cat. Therefore, it makes sense to buy him a heavy-duty cat tree. The tree should be wide and stable, when a huge cat jumps on it, it should stay, not fall over. If it can be secured to a wall, or a staircase railing, it will be even safer.

Question: What is the best age to neuter and spay Maine Coon kittens?


Answer: Maine Coons are usually compared to other domestic cat breeds, calling them big cats. It is more correct to compare them with large wild cats, calling them the smallest representatives of this type of cat. Because Maine Coons, like lions or tigers, are a slow developing breed. Maine Coons grow up to 3.5 years of age and generally reach sexual maturity much later than other domestic breeds.
The benefits of waiting until sexual maturity before neutering cats is that, in male cats, testosterone is required for the closure of the growth plates. In castrated males, the removal of the testes causes lower levels of testosterone leading to a delayed closure of the growth plates. When the growth plates remain open longer, the risk of growth plate fractures increases, which can lead to long term disability and pain.
Therefore, it makes sense for Maine Coons to castrate boys as late as possible. Approximately starting after 8 months.
The medical name of growth plates is epiphyseal plate.
This only applies to boys. Girls can be castrated from 6 months of age.

Question: I’ve recently been scammed by a bad person and would prefer to do the final payment when I am able to pick up the kitten. I am happy to pay deposit until that time. Let me know if this is ok please?

Answer: Yes, you can pay final payment when pick up kitty.

Question: About waiting list.

Answer: I have 2 waiting lists.
1. Can be joined with a $100 deposit.
2. Can be joined without a deposit.
With clients who have paid a deposit, I conclude a contract where I stipulate a price for a kitten that cannot be increased. A person has a queue number when they choose a kitten, which I undertake not to violate. The people on this list know that they will definitely get exactly the kitten they want. I will only refer to the free list when there are kittens available that are not needed in the paid list. And about the price of a kitten for those customers in the free waiting list, there is no obligation on my part. The price for those clients will change based on market factors and the needs of the business.

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