Term & Condition
Guidelines and Recommendations for Owners of Joie De Vivre Kittens
General Purpose
My goal is for your kitten to grow up healthy, strong, and bring you joy for many years. I am sharing my knowledge and experience to help you care for your kitten during the most important first months of its life. These recommendations are educational in nature and will help you better understand kitten physiology and development.
Feeding
Kitten is currently eating the following foods:
3. Purina Pro Plan LiveClear Kitten Chicken & Rice Formula Dry Cat Food.
4. Vital Essentials Freeze-Dried Raw Chicken Mini Patties Entree Cat Food rehydrated in water.
5. Boiled chicken breast, finely chopped.
6. Raw chicken breast, finely chopped or ground in a meat grinder, pre-frozen for two weeks. If you want to feed your kitten raw meat, it should first be frozen for two weeks in the freezer. This process helps ensure the meat is safe from potential parasites. Here’s what I do: I buy enough meat for two weeks, grind it, divide it into daily portions, and freeze it. After two weeks, I take out one portion per day to feed. Please do not give freshly bought raw meat without freezing first.
Please try to purchase the same products before your kitten arrives, so the transition to the new home is smooth and stress-free.
You can absolutely introduce new foods later on — kittens love exploring new tastes!
But please introduce any new items gradually, while still offering what your kitten is already used to.
This helps avoid digestive upset and gives the kitten’s stomach and intestines time to adjust.
Use bowls made of ceramic, stainless steel, or other non-toxic materials. Avoid plastic — it’s been linked to mouth ulcers and bacterial buildup. Replace Food & Bowls Daily. Don't refill over old food. Start fresh every morning. Throw out leftovers, wash bowls in the dishwasher. Yes, food has become expensive — but your cat’s health is priceless.
We feed and water our cats using a small table or raised platform. This helps keep food and water cleaner — and makes eating more comfortable for your pet.
Water
Cats need access to clean, filtered water at all times. Especially on a dry food diet, hydration is critical for kidney and urinary health. Use filtered water only — not tap water. If your local water isn't great (and most isn’t), we highly recommend the Zero Water Filter. We personally monitor water quality with a testing meter to know exactly when the filter needs changing. Replace the water at least twice a day — never just top it off.
We add Oratene Enzymatic Brushless Oral Care Dog & Cat Dental Water Additive to the water to support oral health, reduce plaque and tartar buildup, and help prevent gum inflammation in kittens.
Fountains look fun and cats enjoy playing with them. But fountains are a breeding ground for bacteria.
No matter how “advanced” the filter is, it cannot clean the dirt that builds up on the surfaces of the container.
Cats dip their paws into the water — the same paws they use in the litter box. That debris doesn’t disappear; it circulates. Even if you’re committed to cleaning it daily (and most people aren’t), the structure of most fountains makes it hard to clean thoroughly — bacteria thrive in hidden corners. We strongly advise against using fountains. They often cause more harm than good.
Litter Box
At our cattery, kittens are introduced to a grid-style litter box with no litter — it keeps them clean and safe during their early weeks. But when your kitten arrives home, they will see a different setup: a regular litter box with litter.
So even though your kitten is familiar with the idea of using a litter box, they don’t yet know what this “sand” is for. That’s where your help matters!
Here’s how to make the transition easy:
• Place the litter box near your kitten’s bed or feeding area at first — somewhere easy to reach. Don’t put it in a distant room like a bathroom right away.
• When you see your kitten acting restless, circling, or sniffing — gently place them in the litter box.
• Take their front paws and gently help them scratch the litter. This activates their natural digging instinct and helps them understand the texture.
• If your kitten has an accident outside the box, don’t worry. Blot the pee with a paper towel or gently place the poop into the litter box. Cover it lightly with litter so it smells familiar — that smell is an important signal.
• Once your kitten is confidently using the box, you can gradually move it to your preferred location in the house.
💡 Most kittens learn very quickly with just a little help. A few clear demonstrations — and nature takes over.
Let’s talk about litter box and litters.
This may not be the most glamorous topic — but it’s one of the most important parts of keeping your cat healthy (and your home clean).
Choose clumping litter. Always. This is non-negotiable.
Clumping litter wraps around both pee and poop, forming solid, easy-to-remove clumps. It keeps the box cleaner, reduces odor, and prevents moisture from sitting — which is essential to avoid bacterial and fungal overgrowth.
Avoid litters that dissolve into mush or stay wet — they’re a breeding ground for pathogens.
Don’t fall for the “eco” trap. Many plant-based litters (made from corn, wood, or recycled paper) are marketed as “natural” or “eco-friendly” — but they don’t clump well, and they’re not as hygienic as they seem. These materials quickly harbor bacteria and fungi once they get moist. “Eco” doesn’t always mean healthy — especially when it comes to litter.
Avoid pine and scented litters. Strong smells can cause allergic reactions, respiratory issues, or even trigger anaphylaxis in sensitive cats. Stick to unscented, neutral litters.
Flushable or not? Choose what fits your home. Some litters are flushable (like the one I use), others need to be scooped and bagged. Choose what works for your plumbing — but make sure it’s still clumping and hygienic.
Baking soda helps with odor. Before pouring in the litter, sprinkle a thin layer of baking soda at the bottom of the box. It helps neutralize odor naturally and keeps things fresher between cleanings.
Wash the litter box weekly — no excuses. Even if it looks clean. Transfer the litter to a spare box and thoroughly wash the main one with antibacterial cleaner. And don’t forget the scoop — it touches everything and needs regular washing too. This basic habit prevents so many issues: inflammation, fungus, and hidden smells that affect both you and your cat.
✅ What I use:
I use Pidan’s Tofu Cat Litter —
Clumping, Flushable, Ultra Absorbent, Fast Drying, made from 100% natural ingredients. Water-soluble, truly dust-free, and low scatter. It works great for me and my cats.
But feel free to use any clumping litter that suits your waste system — just make sure it clumps and has no added scent.
Cat Tree Recommendations
Maine Coons aren’t your average cats — and they need more than average furniture.
If you want your kitten to climb, stretch, scratch, and lounge like a king or queen, invest in a sturdy, heavy-duty cat tree built to handle a Maine Coon’s size, strength, and agility.
Look for wide platforms, reinforced posts, stable, wobble-free base, natural materials (like sisal and wood), hammocks or cubbies for cozy naps. A good cat tree is not just furniture — it’s a kingdom. Your kitten will thank you with daily acrobatics and long naps in high places.
Collars for Kittens: Pros and Cons
There are no real benefits to putting a collar on a kitten that lives indoors. Fur under the collar can’t breathe. It traps heat and moisture — perfect for skin infections, especially in kittens with fine or thick coats.
Bells may seem cute to us, but for a kitten’s ultra-sensitive hearing, it’s torture. Imagine wearing headphones that ring every time you move.
What to do if your kitten is scared after arriving home
Even the most confident kitten can become frightened in a completely new environment. Some adapt quickly, others need more help. Here's what you should do if your kitten is hiding, not eating, or acting withdrawn:
Don’t wait for the kitten to come out on its own.
Gently take the kitten in your arms. Pet them, hold them close, talk softly. Let your kitten feel your love and safety through physical contact. Limit exposure to other pets. Sometimes even a curious sniff or accidental hiss from a resident pet can scare a kitten deeply.
Sit quietly nearby. Let your kitten hear your voice, smell your scent, and feel your calm.
Most kittens adjust beautifully within 1–3 days when they feel safe and supported. Your calm, caring presence makes all the difference.
Immunity
Every kitten is born with maternal protection — antibodies are passed through colostrum during the first 36–48 hours after birth, when the kitten receives antibodies through colostrum.
But between 8 and 12 weeks of age, these maternal antibodies begin to decline, while the kitten’s own immune system is still learning to function. This is called the “immunity gap.”
This period is a unique window when the transition to a new family goes most smoothly. At this age, kittens actively seek human attention, adapt easily, and bond strongly with their owners. That is why the optimal age for rehoming is 8 weeks.
During this period it is very important to:
• minimize stress, don’t make sudden diet changes, don’t overload with new contacts);
• A vaccination given during the period of “immunity gap” can have the opposite effect: instead of protection, it may overload the immune system and later even trigger autoimmune diseases. There have been cases where a kitten vaccinated during this time actually developed the very illness it was vaccinated against. It makes sense to postpone vaccination until a more mature stage.
You should know that in the USA the only mandatory vaccination is against rabies. Other vaccines (rhinotracheitis, calicivirus, panleukopenia) are only recommended by veterinarians.
Essential Health Literacy for Kitten Owners
✅ Genetic Testing and the Health of Maine Coon Bones and Eyes
There are currently about 50 recognized genetic markers in cats that can be tested through certified laboratories such as Wisdom Panel and Optimal Selection.
All of my breeding cats have clear results on all available panels, and I can provide the test reports for both parents upon request.
However, it’s important to understand that
👉 there are no DNA tests for hip dysplasia, other joint disorders, or entropion (inward-turning eyelids).
A genetic test is performed using a cheek swab sample (saliva or epithelial cells).
Some veterinarians or online sources mistakenly refer to X-rays as “genetic testing.”
In reality, X-rays only show the physical structure of the bones — they cannot reveal inherited traits or DNA information.
Unfortunately, misinformation about so-called “genetic testing for hip dysplasia” has spread widely. People sometimes ask breeders for such tests — but these tests simply do not exist.
✅ Understanding Injuries and Responsibility
For the same reason, if an injury occurs after a kitten leaves the cattery, the breeder cannot be blamed for selling a “sick” cat.
This misconception is often encouraged by poorly informed veterinarians or used in marketing to justify unnecessary and expensive procedures that bring profit to clinics.
In this entire system, the breeder is often the most vulnerable link — yet also the only person truly invested in your cat’s long-term health.
That’s why I want to explain why Maine Coons may be more prone to joint or eye issues than smaller breeds, and what preventive steps you can take to help your kitten grow strong, healthy, and happy.
✅ Why Maine Coons May Be More Prone to Joint and Eye Issues
Maine Coons are a large and slow-maturing breed — their bodies take longer to fully develop than those of smaller cats.
The bones, muscles, and ligaments finish forming around 2 to 3.5 years of age, while in most smaller breeds this process is complete by about 9 months.
During this extended growth phase, the skeletal system is still developing, yet the cat’s body weight is already significant — which makes the joints and connective tissues more sensitive to stress or injury.
Entropion (inward-turning eyelids) follows the same principle.
If, during the period of facial growth, the edge of the eyelid turns slightly inward, it can later become a permanent issue.
This may happen after mild inflammation or irritation, a small bump or scratch near the eye, or simply as the skull and soft tissues change shape during growth and “lock in” that position.
During your Maine Coon’s growth period, be especially attentive to their eyes and treat any signs of irritation or discharge promptly.
If you notice that a small eyelash or hair has gotten into the eye, gently remove it — early care can prevent entropion from developing altogether.
✅ Supporting Healthy Bone and Eye Development
The most important support for strong bones and joints is a balanced diet rich in calcium, phosphorus, high-quality protein, and natural vitamin D, along with regular movement and access to fresh air.
Please remember: vitamin D cannot be effectively produced through glass or replaced by supplements alone — your cat needs real sunlight for proper calcium absorption and bone strength.
If safe outdoor time isn’t possible, consider using a UVB light source (for example, a reptile lamp) for about 1–2 hours a day to help stimulate the natural production of vitamin D.
✅ Breeder Responsibility and Ethical Standards
At present, there are no official rules, veterinary regulations, or professional guidelines that hold a breeder responsible for accidental injuries a kitten may experience after leaving the cattery.
No document or veterinary standard links a breeder to household injuries such as dislocations, sprains, bruises, or entropion (inward-turning eyelids).
All these conditions are acquired, and they can happen to any animal due to an awkward jump, slip, collision, inflammation, or simply lack of supervision.
The only official breeding recommendation concerns selection for breeding programs:
cats that have undergone entropion surgery or have had serious joint injuries should not be used for breeding.
I strictly follow these principles and confirm that in my cattery,
there has never been a single breeding male or female who has had eye surgery, entropion correction, or any joint-related issues.
All my cats are healthy, active, and carefully selected,
which is why I confidently stand behind the quality and sound health of every kitten I raise.
🫶 Murr-Murr and HCM (Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy)
All of my breeding cats are genetically tested clear for HCM (Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy).
This means your kitten does not carry the HCM mutation and cannot have a genetic heart condition related to it.
However, it’s quite common for veterinarians during a routine check-up to say:
“I hear a heart murmur… let’s do an ultrasound, just in case.”
This happens often — many owners immediately panic, spend hundreds of dollars on testing, and later discover that their cat’s heart is perfectly normal.
A mild “murmur” can appear temporarily when a cat is stressed, frightened, or breathing rapidly during the visit.
Even a healthy heart can sound irregular under stress — and that’s completely normal.
And yes, there is also a human factor: some clinics depend on additional, often expensive, procedures as part of their income.
That’s why it’s so important for owners to stay calm, informed, and avoid making emotional decisions under pressure.
Teeth and Gums
At 3–4 months, kittens begin teething, which continues until 6–7 months. During this time, the gums and mucosa are especially vulnerable.
What to do:
• keep bowls and toys clean;
• don’t let kittens chew on plastic bags or hard objects;
• you may support the gums with gentle natural remedies (e.g., applying sea buckthorn oil or other safe oral-care solutions). These simple measures help prevent problems with the oral cavity, and your kitten will thank you.
Final Part
My mission is to raise strong and happy kittens. I am sharing this knowledge so you can protect your kitten from unnecessary stress and illness. You are the most important person in your kitten’s life. Its growth and well-being depend on your attention, care, and understanding of its physiology. All recommendations above are for informational purposes only. Responsibility for any medical decisions after the kitten moves to its new home rests entirely with the owner.